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By Schwinn_Rider on 9/11/2007 I was just wondering this is the first bike that I can remember having issues with the back wheel jam nuts (or whatever they are called) backing up allowing the wheel to wobble slightly. It doesn't wobble enough to be able to notice it while riding it but I will notice my rear brake lever getting closer to the grips (it goes back when the wheel is tightened up) and my rear gear selector is off in that 1-2 stays in 1st gear 3-6 sits in 2-5 and 7th is where its supposed to be (I can put the shifter in 6th and put the chain in 6th and it will stay but if the gears are changed for any reason it goes back to how it was). What I would like to know is what causes this, how can I correct the rear selector and is there any way to prevent this from happening continusly short of not riding. This is my first bike with quick realeses so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. |
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back wheel question |
NVMtBiker says:
i had a similar issue for a while with a Ti hardtail that i built up. it was an older frame and was made for an 8-speed cassette. i, of course, put it together with a 9-speed. the first issue was that on the smallest cog, the chain would rub on the chainstay. i checked the frame alignment, and considered cold-setting the chainstays, but decided instead to add spacers between the cassette and the frame. the result was that the torque from mashing the pedals would actually pull the wheel out of alignment on the drive side, no matter how tight i cranked the QRs down. solution in my case was to rough up the spacers (washers) by scoring them with a hacksaw. this created enough additional friction to keep them in place. in your case, the cause sounds similar. i don't suggest adding any spacers, lock washers or scoring either your axle or skewer. in any case what is happening is that the forces you are creating are overpowering the QR. this can happen with disc brakes on the front, and i imagine the back. assuming you've already tried tightening the skewers, try a different brand of skewers as not all are created equally. check out this outstanding (and more technical) article by lennard zinn bike mechanic guru: http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/5432.0.html keep in mind while you're reading that most rear dropout open straight down (as described in the article about front dropouts) and that in addition to braking forces, which are less on the back wheel, you also have torque from pedaling that is amplified by the gearing. |
Schwinn_Rider says:
the wheel is the original with the only changes being the intertube is a "thicker" one (designed to hold more air appearantly and harder to puncture) and pre-slimed and the spoke strip replaced. still has the original brakes (v style) |
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