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Want to build a bike repair stand for less than $100?

By mjayers on 12/28/2006 on mjayers's blog
Clamp for seat post
Clamp for seat post

So you want to work on your bike? Well, here's a great way to build a repair stand on your own for far less than the cost of buying one.

First off, I can't take complete credit for this stand as this article draws heavily on an article by goingoncetwice on yourmtb.com.
Secondly, support your local hardware store. Just like a great local bike shop, a local hardware store is a much better experience overall. To find a local hardware store follow this link: DoitBest Hardware Stores.

Everything needed for this project can be purchased at a local hardware store.

Approximate Cost: Under $80.00
Time Required: Roughly (2) Hours
Difficulty: Medium
Materials:
Base and Frame
(1) Sheet of 3/8 inch plywood (at least this thick) cut to 4 feet by 30 inches.
(1) Generic handle - for carrying plywood base.
(1) Galvanized steel pipe, 4 1/2 feet by 1 1/4 inches, threaded on both ends.
(1) Galvanized steel pipe, 12 inches by 1 1/4 inches, threaded on ONE end.
(1) Galvanized steel base, 1 1/4 inches in diameter.
(4) Stainless steel bolts and nuts to secure base to plywood.
(1) Steel electrical box cover (for below the galvanized base, stabilizes)
(1) 90 degree galvanized steel connection, threaded on both ends.
Clamp
(1) PVC tee connection, 2 inches, schedule 40.
(1) PVC pipe, 2 inches wide by 2 inches long, schedule 40.
(1) PVC coupling, 1 1/4 inches wide (to outside), fits inside PVC tee and pipe.
PVC primer and cement.
(1) Draw catch
(1) 4 inch section of pipe insulation, 1 3/4 inches wide at outside.
(2) Steel hinges, 1 inch in length.
(12) Pop rivets.

Tools required:
Band saw - for cutting PVC tee in half.
Pop rivet gun.
Drill and bits.
Table saw - for cutting plywood down to size.

Assembly
1. Start by cutting the plywood down to size.
2. Once the plywood is cut to size, find the middle of one of the long sides of the plywood and measure 6 inches in. Mark this spot, this is the location for the base.
3. Now that the location for the base has been determined, drill four holes for the base.
* Also drill four corresponding holes in the electrical box cover.
4. With the electrical box cover below the plywood, insert the four bolts upwards through the plywood.
5. Attach the base to the plywood with the nuts. Next, drill two holes for the carrying handle. Attach the carrying handle.
6. Screw the 4 1/2 foot section of galvanized steel pipe into the base.
7. Screw the 90 degree connection onto the top of the steel pipe.
8. Screw the 12 inch galvanized steel pipe into the 90 degree connection. The frame is now complete.
9. Now, on to the clamp. Cut the PVC tee in half as shown in the pictures. Be sure cut directly down the middle. Watch your fingers.
10. Prime the 2 inch PVC tee, the 2 inch by 2 inch long PVC pipe, and the fitting to connect the two. Add cement and hold everything together. Work quickly since PVC cement dries rapidly.
11. Once the PVC cement has dried, drill holes for the hinges and the draw clasp.
12. Pop rivet the hinges and draw clasp to the PVC piping.
13. Congratulations! Now that the clamp is done you’re ready to go! Simply insert the clamp over the end of the galvanized steel and let the repairs begin!

If anyone has suggestions, questions, or comments, please don’t hesitate to drop me a line!

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4 comments

NVMtBiker says:

Put together one of these to mount to a fence post. it's a great, workable design, but there's too much slop in the clamp portion. i plan to rebuild it using a metal T rather than the PVC. the PVC is too flexy, and you end up having to steady it with one hand while trying to work with the other. Also, the latch mechanism is not strong enough. I ended up supplementing with a c-clamp to keep it tight. a smaller diameter T should help some too. overall, however, like i said a great and very workable design. some tweeks could make this a great clamp.

mjayers says:

<em>mjayers</em>'s picture

I remedied the slop in the PVC with three things; first, I used a rather large draw clasp to hold the PVC shut, secondly, I used a thick piece of pipe insulation to insure that once the clamp was closed there wouldn't be any sloppiness. Lastly, and this is where my design is different than goingoncetwice, I added a coupling along with a couple more inches of PVC pipe. Adding this little bit of material allows for a larger draw clasp to be used and also stabilizes the bike a great deal.
Hope this helps,
-Mike

NVMtBiker says:

did the insulation thing, but that did not help. did not consider extending the collar.

goingoncetwice says:

<em>goingoncetwice</em>'s picture

Mjayers-

Nice work and thanks for the credit. I like what you've done with my initial project.

I've never had sloppiness with my clamp. Any gaps in the PVC T and the seat tube are handled by the proper sized insulation. Also, I recommend using a govenor pin through the locking clasp in its closed position to prevent the clasp from ever opening while your bike is in there.

Once again - great work and have fun riding, cleaning, repairing, and riding again!

Happy New Year!

-Mike

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